Statement VI – Judith Clark

The next piece of reading – it took me a while as I constantly had to look up words, exhibitions and artists. Click on the image to link to the source.

Clark is a curator specialising in fashion. In 2005 she organised Spectres: When Fashion Talks Back at the V&A.

‘Phantasmagoria: The Amazing Lost and Found’, photography by Ronald Stoops. Featuring an evening dress by Christian Dior, 1955.

‘Pepper’s Ghost’ for the exhibition Spectres: When Fashion Turns Back, 2004. Photography by Ronald Stoops

‘Reappearances: Getting Things Back’, rear view of the labyrinth. Photography by Ronald Stoops

Donna Simonetta Colonna di Cesaro … “and the most important part of the photo was her beautiful right arm. In exhibitions things stand in for other things, objects are suggestive (the exhibition space marks them as evocative, provocative objects).”

“mannequins went out of fashion……. they peaked as officially invisible with the Giorgio Armani exhibition at the Guggenheim in New York 2000.” As shown in this Vanity Fair photo.

Verisimilitude – according to the Oxford English Dictionary.

The fact or quality of being verisimilar; the appearance of being true or real; likeness or resemblance to truth, reality, or fact; probability.

Naomi Filmer, preparation sketch of harlequin feet to be made in wood, 2004

Naomi Filmer, preparation sketch of harlequin feet to be made in wood, 2004.

“also gestured to the presence of Elsa Schiaparelli’s Harlequin Jacket.”

Elsa Schiaparelli Patchwork harlequin evening jacket (Spring 1939)

Schiaparelli Patchwork Evening Jacket (Spring 1939)

Elsa Schiaparelli’s Patchwork evening jacket was inspired by the Harlequin pattern used by Surreallist artist during this time period, artist of influence included Pablo Picasso and Man Ray. See Le Beau Temps by Man Ray. Polychrome wool felt, blue silk faille; Commedia dell’Arte collection; embroidered by Lesage.

“ideas about mannequins”

19th Century wax figures

“Hans Bellmer’s perverse and traumatized bodies.

Picture 4.png

“This story went around about me: Apparently I’d wanted a billiard-table green background for a picture. So the photographer went out and took the picture. I didn’t like it. He went out and took it again and I still didn’t like it. ‘I asked for billiard-table green!’ I’m supposed to have said. ‘But this is a billiard table, Mrs. Vreeland,’ the photographer replied. ‘My dear,’ I apparently said, ‘I meant the idea of billiard-table green.”

“Exhibitions could for example be based on the idea of free association….. The spectator is free to make personal sense of the exhibition….. How free is the spectator to surprise herself?”

“Exhibitions can get stuck in time. What if the pose says more than the dress? What if the way Simonetta smoked her cigarette was the most memorable thing about her clothes?”

“I wanted the difference between sections……….to refer to a history of exhibitions that included……..”

Frederick Kiesler, Model for the Endless House, 1959  89.8

Frederick Kiesler, Model for the Endless House, 1959. Cement and wire mesh with plexiglass, 38 × 97 1/4 × 42 in. (96.5 x 247 x 106.7 cm). Whitney Museum of American Art, New York; gift of Mrs. Lillian Kiesler  89.8
Courtesy of Jason McCoy Inc., N.Y.
Ilya & Emeilia Kabakov
“Utopian repositories of Yuri Avvakumov”
Black Bone Mausoleum. Homage to the architect Schusev, 2008
3 500 dominoes with Swarovski crystals
62,5 x 170 x 142 cm
Courtesy of the artist and the Multimedia Art Museum, Moscow
dress by kambriel
Kambriel, “Midnight Bustle” ensemble: jacket and skirt; satin finished black brocade. 2005, USA, lent by Kambrie, photo by Nadya Lev
Dai Rees Swarovski encrusted sheep’s pelvis
Hussein Chalayan
Hussein Chalayan (English, born Cyprus, 1970). “Remote Control Dress,” spring/summer 2000 (edition from 2005). Pink fiberglass; pink nylon tulle. Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2006 (2006.251a–c).
“Museum exhibitions carry with them the anxiety of the idea of completion, of telling the whole, the most accurate story.”
To be continued……… this has taken 3 hours to look up and write – an hour a page – several more to go. But I’m gaining a better understanding of the subject.

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